A little bit more about Meknes. Luckily, we had some time to spare after my husband’s guest speaker appearance over there. It was a good idea that we made it as “a little weekend gateway” and enjoyed a more relaxed pace.
Meknes’ proud Dar Jamai Museum. It showcases Morocco’s unique musical culture, located in Al Hadeem Square. The entrance is small, but once inside, the contents are quite abundant and very impressive. Also, look at that beautiful courtyard!
As a music museum, traditional Moroccan instruments and their playing methods are beautifully displayed. What I found particularly interesting was the section introducing the music of people living in Berber culture. Even though it’s all called “Amazigh Music,” the sounds, singing voices, instrument usage, and dance styles differ depending on where people live and their historical influences.
This museum building is a magnificent mansion built in 1882 by the Jamai family, and it then served as a hospital during the French colonial era. The building itself is truly beautiful.
The mosaic-like tiles and colorful stained-glass windows, along with the unique lime plaster walls called Tadelakt, and the intricate and beautiful Naqsh (plaster sculptures), are so captivating that you could spend hours admiring them (that’s exactly what we did).
By the way, at the McDonald’s drive-thru in Meknes, we spotted some local warriors dressed in traditional Moroccan attire riding up to place their orders. I suppose you could call it a “Horse-thru”?
My husband’s recovery following his surgery has been going very smoothly. Since his doctor gave us the green light, we went ahead with a business trip he had originally scheduled (and, out of concern, I decided to come along with him).
The destination was, ENSAM Meknes, a graduate school located in the beautiful city of Meknes. My husband had been invited there as a guest speaker. And, we were very excited to show up after seeing this poster. Who wouldn’t? Okay, a little explanation here:the theme of this campus event taking place that day happened to be “Siberia.”
Why Siberia? Well, it turns out it’s a play on words: “Cyber” combined with “IA”—the French acronym for AI (Artificial Intelligence). So, Cyber + IA = Siberia! How clever and creative! This “cool” theme was all over the decorations around the venue, which was quite amusing.
Incidentally, my husband’s name is Olof. Yes—just like the snowman from the Disney movie *Frozen*! So, as an “icebreaker” with the students, he wore this “Olaf” hat. It fit the “Siberia” theme perfectly!
The students were incredibly sharp, friendly, and positive. A lively Q&A session followed the lecture, with plenty of questions coming from the audience. Just as he had during his visit to the graduate school in Rabat, my husband appeared to thoroughly enjoy interacting with these young engineers.
The journey from Rabat to Meknes takes just under three hours by train. Meknes is one of Morocco’s “Four Imperial Cities”- alongside Fes, Marrakech, and Rabat – as it served as the royal capital for a dynasty back in the 17th century. We’ve visited Meknes twice before, but on both occasions, our focus was strictly on sightseeing (Volubilis, the site of impressive Roman Empire ruins, is located quite close to Meknes). Consequently, spending time visiting a local graduate school, or leisurely exploring the city’s souks and local restaurants, felt like a truly fresh and relaxing experience.
As for me, I could hardly believe that it had been just ten days since my husband underwent heart surgery. And seeing my husband on stage, delivering a lecture filled with passion and plenty of jokes, brought me to tears.
Recently, we had guests from Denmark, Spain and the U.S. It’s always fun to have friends and family visiting us & catching up. My husband and I enjoy hosting them at our place, introducing some Moroccan dishes and such.
We gave them our usual “Hellman Tour” of Rabat – Medina, Tower Hassan, Kasbah and Chellah. We also took them to Casablanca, visiting the Hassan II mosque.
This Hellman Tour is well known for a special lecture by Dr. Hellman on “The Relationship Between Moroccan Tiles and the Fibonacci Sequence.” This portion of the tour is always included (and not optional), even if you are not particularly interested in mathematics.
One of them is Pescatarian, so this street food of grilled fish was a good choice in Casablanca. Plenty of fish, with moroccan bread and salad, and it only costs 40 dirhams (about $4) per person! Great food option for growing young boys!
For their last morning, I made Japanese bento boxes. It has become my tradition to serve Japanese breakfast to our staying guests. We’ve known them from middle school time – now they are old enough to drink alcohol! I am always happy when my husband gets to have some drinking buddies 🙂 Time passes so quickly…
Other guests were my husband’s MIT seniors and his wife, who came on a tour from the US. They joined the group tour to visit some of the cities in Morocco, and Rabat was their entry city from New York. I believe they’ll visit Meknes, Fes, Marrakesh, and Casablanca. Upon arrival, we met them at their hotel, and strolled around the media until their “tour orientation” time in the evening.
We walked through the souk, giving them the very first feelings of Morocco. Also, we introduced them to what we think is the best street donut in town! I hope they are currently enjoying the tour, visiting many different areas with their tour guide, plus 30 other participants.
We’ve been very lucky to have our friends and family visiting Rabat often. I believe the true charm of Morocco lies in its people, and only one way to experience it is to be here, and interact with them. That should create the most wonderful souvenir, and, my husband and I are always happy to help that happen. So, please come visit us!
Some fun facts I learned about Portugal. Maybe you find them interesting, too!
今でも思い出すポルトガルのもろもろ、、、を記しておきます。
1) The president of Portugal loves selfies. ポルトガルのプレジデントは、セルフィーがお好き。
His name is Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa. He is known to enjoy taking selfies and is very happy to click with anyone wherever he goes! He looks like a very kind person, doesn’t he? This “president’s passion for selfies” now has a special name: #Marcelfie. Instagram, Facebook, you will find great pics on social media. We didn’t get to meet him this time, but I pretended we did…
彼の名はMarcelo Rebelo de Sousa。自撮りが大好きで、どこに行っても心よく一緒にセルフィーしてくれるんだそうです。とっても気の優しい方だそうです。よって『マーセルフィー』と言う言葉まで生まれ、サイトやインスタもあるのだとか、、、。今回、私たちはプレジデントに出会えませんでしたが、ちょっと作ってみましたぁ。
2) Huh? Golden Gate Bridge in Lisbon? あれ？サンフランシスコ？のような赤い橋がある。
If you only looked at this photo, you might think, “That’s San Francisco, right?” This bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril, 25th of April Bridge) connects Lisbon with the town along the Taguas River, and it was actually designed to resemble the Golden Gate Bridge by American engineers living in Portugal. Okay, so it was intentionally created “to look-alike.” Red is definitely easy to see in the fogs.
3) Huh? A Jesus that looks like Rio de Janeiro? あれ？リオデジャネイロ？のようなジーザスがいる。
Yes, this Jesus could also make you think, “Huh? Where am I?” While smaller than the statue in Rio de Janeiro (apparently the Lisbon statue is about 2 meters shorter if you only compare the figures of Christ), the wide-open arms were still visible from afar.
4) Portugal is the world’s largest producer of cork! コルク生産高は世界一！
Cork is essential for bottles, such as wine bottles. I found out that Portugal is said to be the world’s largest producer of cork. That explains why even the subway seats were made of it! By the way, they were quite comfortable, and I bet they are easy to clean. You can find many souvenirs made with cork all over Lisbon, which I didn’t buy any.
5) Fado is like the world of Japanese Enka (traditional Japanese ballads). ファドは、演歌の世界。
Fado is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. There are many “Fado bars” in Lisbon, but when I asked a local, they said Fado is “songs that convey saudade (melancholy), full of complaints.” They also said, “That’s just the nature of the Portuguese.” You know what I think? It definitely has the same vibe as Japanese Enka songs.
Lisbon is a city of just the right size to explore on foot (if you don’t mind the ups and downs of the hills). Since we had a whole day free, we decided to visit Sintra, the village everyone talks about… with mysterious palaces.
It was originally a hilltop village favored as a summer retreat by royalty and the wealthy. Many package tours depart from Lisbon to visit Sintra, but we decided to do independently by train and Uber so that we could have more freedom to get around.
First visit: Pena Palace. Timed entry tickets necessary. It used to be a monastery, but was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. Later, it was transformed into a palace by King Ferdinand II (AKA, “Artist King”- consort of Queen Maria II). Strangely, its original chapel remained intact and still stands today. A very sacred place.
This palace’s architectural style puzzled me. Is it Renaissance? Gothic? or even Islamic? Or was it just designed solely based on the image of a fairy tale land? Of course, it definitely features the uniquely Portuguese Manuel style (influenced by the Age of Discovery, incorporating various natural and nautical motifs; the spiral columns, numerous arches, and abruptly protruding towers are particularly interesting), but, overall, it was a buffet of architectural styles.
ANYWAY. As it was the royal summer palace, we could peek extremely gorgeous bedrooms, a huge kitchen, and a well-ventilated terrace. 王家の夏の離宮、と言うことで、寝室やキッチン、風通しの良さそうなテラスなどが見れます。
Old palaces always seem to have a very nice “smoking room,” don’t they? They must have taken smoking very seriously…昔の宮殿って、かならず「スモーキングルーム」がありますよねぇ。しかもかなりゴージャスな喫煙所。
So, this Triton statue. Very eye-catching, and that’s a very difficult pose to hold (art model point of view). He looks like he’s guarding the castle with great strength, but upon closer inspection, there are quite a few things to criticize (but I didn’t criticize).
Leaving behind this castle with its fairytale-like, yet somewhat unsatisfying feelings, we headed to Quinta da Regaleira. It was about a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride, but beyond that, another uphill climb that would give your legs a good workout.
“Quinta” is an interesting word. It’s a large house in the country, or estate. So, there was more than a castle or palace to explore. To me, Quinta da Regaleira felt like a “grown-up garden built by a super-rich old man who was able to spend his money to his heart’s content.” The castle itself has a rather dingy feel, more like a Haunted Mansion in Disneyland. Within the grounds, there are mystical forests and caves, as well as eerie ponds, mazes, and even a more mysterious, “Well.”
The official name is “Well of Initiation.” Hmm. This incredibly long well made me think of Dante’s Divine Comedy. It’s 30 meters from top to bottom. Honestly, I was scared of going down. And, it didn’t make me want to initiate anything.
Apparently, Baron Monteiro (who lived here) was a Freemason, and indeed, there are “secret symbols” everywhere. This well was supposedly used for some kind of ritual.
Before heading back to Lisbon, we enjoyed some delicious tapas in Sintra’s small downtown area, and bought its famous Queijada (cinnamon-flavored tart) and Traveseiro (a pastry filled with almond cream) from the long-established bakery, Piriquita. We enjoyed them on the platform while waiting for our train back.
Last year, we experienced Ramadan for the first time in Morocco. We learned that many cafés and restaurants were only open for the evenings, streets became a lot quieter, but we started hearing a lot of ‘honking’ in the late afternoon because a lot of people tried to be home before Iftar time, can’t purchase any alcohol, etc. We tend to spend more time at home during Ramadan, which lead to the idea of a “Ramadan Getaway.”
So, this year, we went to Lisbon! Just an hour flight was very convenient! And, when you think of Lisbon, of course, you will think of Egg Tarts – yes?
今年はリスボンへ行ってきました。モロッコからは、ほんの1時間のフライトで到着です。リスボンと言えば＜エッグタルト＞でございます～(もちろん、それ以外もございます〜)。 It seems like there are two main “clans” among locals when it comes to this very important question: “which place offers the best egg tarts?” The Pastéis de Belém clan and the Manteigaria clan! I also found out that there are some people who are in the Fábrica da Nata clan.
地元の方達に聞くと、大きく二つに分かれるっぽいのが「どこのエッグタルトが1番美味しいか？」と言う質問に対するお答え。Pastéis de Belém派と、Manteigaria派の対立！ちょっと変わったところで、Fábrica da Nata派も存在するようです。
Of course, we tried all three places! To be honest, they were all equally delicious. It’s amazing how each one is distinctly different though; Belém’s pastry is so light, like angel wings. Manteigaria’s ‘moist and crisp’ balance is superb, and Fabrica’s rich flavor is irresistible.
I cannot be a good judge. I loved them all. I can join all three clans. Simply delicious, simply wonderful.
というわけで、私は食レポには向いていない人間でした。どれもただただ美味しい、ただただ幸せ。
Lisbon’s streets, with their beautiful black and white cobblestones (calzada portuguesa), give off a deep sense of history, however, surprisingly, they seem to have been built quite recently (19th century). That’s fine, as long as it’s beautiful. Lisbon is a hilly city, and even though walking around can be exhausting, the beauty of the cobblestones and buildings with gorgeous wall tiles give you extra energy (and more energy from the egg tarts, of course).
As good tourists, we made sure to see some of the “quintessential Lisbon” spots. Numerous monuments reflect the history of seafaring.
そして、『ザ·リスボン』な場所もしっかりみてきました。航海の歴史を感じるモニュメントなどなど。
This is the Jerónimos Monastery, constructed by King Manuel I, known as the Golden King. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, making it incredibly popular (good idea to book a timed entry ticket). Just walking along the corridors and admiring the decorations teach us how rich and wealthy during Portugal’s age of discovery.
My husband seemed to enjoy the local specialty, Ginjinha. It’s a cherry liqueur served in a tiny chocolate cup, by a local auntie in an old Jewish neighborhood. So cute!
Here’s another local specialty: dried cod. Apparently, this dried fish was highly valued during the Age of Discovery. And a bit of Japanese nostalgia found at the supermarket.
Let’s write about our time in Agadir. アガディールでの時間を綴っておきます。
In January, it rained almost every day in Rabat, which we were happy about (Morocco really needed rain). But, we heard about this “sunny city” of Agadir, and why not? for a weekend trip. It took 1 hour flight to reach Agadir, very well known for its beautiful coastal resort.
The first thing I noticed when we got off the domestic flight was, that Agadir airport was full of foreigners! That was because we landed about the same time as flights from the UK and Germany, I think. But oh boy, it was the first “Are we still in Morocco?” experience.
Our goal for this trip was to “seek out the sun and just chill.” So, we stayed at the Iberostar Resort on the beach, using <all-inclusive accommodation>. My husband and I are not quite the “all-inclusive” kind of people, but there is always a first time for everything, non? The second “Are we still in Morocco?” experience happened once we checked in at the hotel. Most of the guests were caucasians, wandering around with beer and wine in hand, and lounging by the pool in bikinis and such.
Now, this <all-inclusive accommodation> means a luxurious hotel buffet for three meals a day and never ending snacks and (also never ending) drinks, always available. AND, the drinks mean, anything including alcohol! I don’t drink alcohol, but I know someone who enjoyed it 😎. You can also participate in a variety of activities, such as aerobics, spa service, archery, and the kids’club. I guess it’s kind of like getting on a cruise ship – except we are not on a boat.
All Inclusiveとは、３食ホテルの豪華ブッフェがついていて、しかも、アルコールも含まれている、、、と。そしてエアロビクスやアーチェリーや、キッズクラブなど、さまざまなアクティビティに参加可能。私たちはクルーズ船の旅をしたことがないのですが、たぶん、こういう感じなんでしょうか、ね。
To tell you the truth, we didn’t take advantage of all these services. But, we surely enjoyed our long daily walk on the beach every day. The beach was bustling with activities, with people doing windsurfing and such. The promenade is nicely flat and long, so organized. Even the hanuts (Moroccan convenience stores) are well organized, too. You know where this place reminds me of? Marseille.
If you head towards the three words on the hill, “Allah, Al-Watan, Al-Malik (God, Homeland, King)” you’ll find the Kasbah (old city walls). You can also take a gondola lift to the top of the hill, which gives you the nicest view of the city.
On the top, you can visit the old city which was destroyed by the 1960 earthquake. It shows us how they used to live; Muslims and Jews coexisted peacefully here. They were wise – we should definitely learn from them.
The current souk with mosque. Since it was redeveloped after the earthquake as well, it felt very organized. The city’s infrastructure overall is also very organized and clean. Agadir is surely a city friendly to pedestrians.
Last but not least, my third “Are we still in Morocco?” moment was the “nightlife” at the hotel. Yes, they provide “Broadway-style” dinner shows with very “Broadway-style” costumes. Almost half-naked male dancers, and very sexy costumes for female dancers. I hadn’t seen these types of entertainment for a while living in Morocco (with rather conservative standard), so it was a surprise. Sorry if I sound like an old, conservative woman – well, I guess I am becoming one (and am proud of it).
Morocco had a lot of rain in December and January. We needed the rain! So it was a good blessing, but it is also true that there was flooding in some places… I hope everyone was safe.
Last Christmas, my husband’s brother’s family came all the way to visit us! So we had a fabulous God Jul time with them, and tried our best to make a traditional Swedish Christmas menu.
And for New Year’s, I made Japanese “Osechi” (traditional New Year’s food). Since I couldn’t find all the ingredients, it was a bit of a “makeshift” version, but we were able to welcome the New Year in spirit, I think.
Throughout January, we were very much involved in rooting for Moroccan National Team at the Africa Cup of the Nations! We had fun with the locals at a bar or cheering loudly together in the FanZone. It was so much fun.
Oh, and I made some “Victory Headbands” – yup. そうそう、「必勝はちまき」も作りましたよ。
We spent a few days in Agadir, in search of sunlight & the blue sky. Agadir amazed us, with beautiful beaches and very organized infrastructure. The resort we stayed at had so many visitors from Europe… It was a lovely, relaxing weekend.
Oh, at Agadir airport, I got to meet Assad, the mascot for Morocco’s soccer team. モロッコのサッカーチーム·マスコット、Assadくんにも出会えました。
And my husband got to meet a big duck. そして旦那さんは、大きなアヒルさんに出会えました。
Weekly choir practice, studying French and Darija every day, trying out new recipes & dishes at cooking – something I didn’t have much time to do before back in the US. Often we join some activities through International Club of Rabat, And, spending time walking with my husband, while saying hello to our kind neighbors (both humans and cats)… Days in Rabat flow peacefully with lots smiles, and I am so thankful.
This year, 2026, seems to be another year of lots of traveling ahead, both business and personal. Inshallah! 今年2026年も、出張やら里帰りやらでいろいろな場所へ旅をしそうな夫婦です。インシャーラ！
Tomo
The cats of the day :: Les chats du jour :: 今日の猫しゃんたち
Please stop by at my salon again 💞🫖🍵 3afak & Chukran
Three months passed after the last blog post! Oh dear… well, I don’t want to sound like sharing “excuses”, but we have been quite busy in the last three months, and I was away from my laptop. Okay, that’s an excuse…
While we were in the US, there were so many people to reunite; our children (in Providence and Seattle), our mother-figure, Tant Aina (in Cleveland), our dear friends (in Seattle). We also attended a wedding (in Denver) of Olof’s friend from MIT.
It felt like we were traveling around the US, like astruggling rock band. “The Hellmans US Tour!” did not quite cover the major cities (see, we are a “struggling” rock band 😅) but all the love we received from each place was priceless!
After returning to Morocco, we had to go to Valencia & Logroño, Spain, and then Marseille, France, for Olof’s conferences. I know there is a term “TradWife” that’s been trending on social media, but I guess I’m more of a “ConfeWife”. I just tag along to my husband’s conferences as a “plus one”.
I have to say, I like my life as “ConfeWife” – it’s a refreshing change. When we lived in the US, I traveled for work more often than my husband did, so I’m really happy to be able to accompany him on his business trips now. Besides, how can I complain about visiting new places and exploring different cultures? Well, above all, it makes me very happy to see my husband enjoying his career, presenting his research and expanding his network through international conferences.
Okay, more “excuses” 🙂 Three wonderful guests stayed with us in September & October. One couple from Arizona are friends we’ve known since our sons were homeschooled. Katie and Brent stopped in Morocco after studying Spanish in Granada for a month. The other guest was Takano-san, who helped me a lot when I was working in Hawaii. He brought so many souvenirs from Japan – and I am so touched!
We have visited Marrakesh with him! 高野さんとは、”小旅行”としてマラケッシュへも同行。
Since moving here, we have been so blessed to welcome many guests staying at our place. I cannot express enough how wonderful Morocco is 🇲🇦, and I believe that the best way to see the beauty of Morocco is for anyone to come and experience it for themselves. We absolutely enjoy showing them around, introducing them to the amazing Moroccan culture and even-more amazing Moroccan people❤️.
Our next guests will be Olof’s brother and his family at Christmas! I’m trying to figure out how to create a Swedish-style “Julbord” for Christmas in Morocco… probably no ham 🍖.
Over the past three months, we’ve been making numerous trips to the police station: no, we are not in trouble, but we are trying to get our Moroccan residence permits (carte de sejour) . Each time, we have to wake up at 5 AM, then appear at the police station by 7am, sign our names on a list, and then have Petit Déjourner until the police counter opens at 8:30am. Yes, this is our regular schedule. We’ve already been to the police station for eight times, needless to say, with so many trips to La Commune. Are we almost ready to receive our permits soon? It’s a true “inshallah”…
I joined the local choir, Harmonize Choir! and practice started in September, and I’m having a lot of fun every time! But, I’m lamenting my lack of French ability… So, recently, I’ve been devoting a lot more time to “studying French.” I’m constantly reminded how difficult French is (maybe I need to eat more cheese, or drink wine 🍷🧀 as my husband suggests…) Hopefully, I will be able to understand French directions at each rehearsal better. Inshallah.
In addition to French, we’ve also started attending the “Darija” class held by the International Club of Rabat. We spend 90 minutes once a week puzzling over Darija verb conjugations… this is another “inshallah” moment.
I’m also spending my time making and replenishing Natto, growing herbs on our terrace, taking yoga classes, figuring out “how to make authentic Japanese food with ingredients found in Morocco”, etc… and telling myself that I should start blogging more frequently. Shukran for reading my “excuses”! 😆
We are back in the US after six months in Morocco. Our itinerary this time reminds me of a struggling rock band: we enter the US from the East Coast (Boston), and our first stop is Providence, Rhode Island, where our youngest child attends college. Thereafter, we would visit relatives (Ohio) and then attend a wedding (Colorado) before heading to our U.S. home in Seattle.
First stay is in Providence, and it is such a charming city. Our child is aspiring to be a graphic designer and is currently studying at RISD (Rhode Island School of Design). He’s also taking classes at Brown University and doing an internship at the RISD museum. His days seem very busy, but at least he has such a beautiful room with a view on campus!
We also wanted to go a little further away from the campus this time. So, upon my request, we went to Plymouth Rock! This rock is a historic site, as it’s said to be the first place the Pilgrims, who arrived on the Mayflower in 1620, stepped on this special rock. Very important place for Americans (I think so & I demand so) because it represents the of life in the “Land of the Free.” That being said, it’s also known as “the most disappointing tourist destination in the US.” Well, I didn’t think so! And I’m grateful for my family to accommodate my request to visit this rock. See, the rock might not move – but, you can let the rock move your heart, if you truly believe. Hamdulillah.
The Mayflower II is also docked here. It’s the replica of the original Mayflower ship. Apparently, this “number 2” ship also made the voyage from England to Plymouth, just like the original Pilgrims did (but a bit shorter). The Mayflower in 1620 took 66 days to complete its journey, whereas the Mayflower II was able to cross the ocean in 54 days.
We also drove to Newport. It is a very fashionable port town, and the highlight of the visit was exploring luxurious mansions in the neighborhood. Very bougie. Among them, we actually stepped in an ultra-luxury mansion from the gilded age, called The Breakers. It has the appearance of a European palace, and each room is decorated in French/Italian style. Definitely the vibe of Downton Abbey or Bridgerton.
I was particularly intrigued by the Billiard Room and Music Room. The interiors, designed by a French architect, with their beautiful sculptures and tapestries… there are many items which are not necessary in the mansion such as a fountain behind the stairs. But it’s okay, they were rich and they could afford. The surrounding cliff walk was a great exercise with some seriously picturesque views.
We spent time getting to know our child’s roommate (and her fabulous mom!), professors, and friends on the RISD campus, and I’m so grateful for such a welcoming and inspiring community. I hope our child continues to enjoy his college life here, and I will be so looking forward to visiting him again!
